Rasht – Astara


Aquesta entrada descriu el que ens ha succeït entre les dues poblacions del títol.

Hem arribat a Astara! Aquest és el final de la nostra ruta a peu per Iran.

Ja hem fet 1.500 quilòmetres més per Iran arribant a un total d’uns 8.500 i estem a les portes d’Azerbaidjan. Però encara no marxem d’aquí. Ens quedem uns dies més descansant, recuperant salut (molt important), perseguint el proper visat necessari per continuar, visitant alguns dels punts més importants turísticament parlant… per fer de viatgers sense caminar entre destinacions així com per recarregar piles de cara als propers mesos i països.

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The Shortcut

“Look at the map. This dirt road may be a shortcut. We’ll avoid the main road and traffic, and maybe we’ll save a couple of kilometers.”

The sun is climbing over the horizon, the birds are up, and farmers on horses wave to us. The soft green rice paddies create the illusion of a morning hike out in nature, away from people and noise. We haven’t walked a trail like this for many months.

It sounded like a good option at 6 a.m.

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Parc Golestan – Gorgan


Aquesta entrada descriu el que ens ha succeït entre les dues poblacions del títol.

Després d’haver caminat unes setmanes menjant-nos molt desert, ara ja gaudim de parcs nacionals, parcs forestals, muntanyes plenes d’arbres però malauradament la nostra ruta gairebé sempre segueix sense oferir-nos cap ombra que ens doni un respir.

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Bojnurd – Parc Golestan


Aquesta entrada descriu el que ens ha succeït entre les dues poblacions del títol.

Hem seguit caminant per alguns trams ben bonics amb camps verds i conreats al nostre voltant, després ens hem tornat a submergir en un dur desert, dins un mar de no-res amb pocs pobles cada molts quilòmetres i hem acabat dins el fabulós parc nacional de Golestan amb muntanyes atapeïdes d’espessa vegetació i boscos amb una rica (i perillosa) fauna autòctona.

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Cheers to you

Hello Dear Followers,

We think of you all the time and want to thank you for your good wishes and ongoing support.

It’s hard doing what we do every day, but your kind words in the form of blog and social media comments, emails, Whatsapp, Messenger and Telegram messages, voicemails and donations give us so much energy. It may take us a while to respond to each of you individually, but please know that we read everything you write and feel your love. Your hellos and notes make us smile and help us believe we have what it takes to keep going.

Cheers to all of you! We love you, and we always carry you in our hearts. We are so grateful you are in our lives and part of this walking journey!

Walking onwards,

Your two happy walkers


Mashhad – Bojnurd


Aquesta entrada descriu el que ens ha succeït entre les dues poblacions del títol.

Portem aproximadament unes 3 setmanes a Iran. No sabem què ens aconteixerà més endavant però el viscut fins ara és fabulós.

No ens cansarem de repetir, escriure i lloar l’al·lucinant hospitalitat i generositat dels iraniàns. Encara que semblés impossible, els fabulosos, generosos i hospitalaris habitants del Pamir han estat relegats a la segona posició, superats per aquest poble iranià al que de moment estem infinitament agraïts i que ens deixa bocabadats dia sí, dia també.

Esperem que els lectors no s’avorreixin llegint tanta bondat recollida per aquests 2 caminants enamorats del món.

Benvinguts a Iran! Quines persones!!!!

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One Moment: Map Love

Fatima brings out her atlas. She wants to see our walking route.

Her initial shyness has melted. Her light blue eyes dance with wonder and travel lust.

She’s 10 years old, and has flipped the pages many times. She knows where places are, and the seeds of exploration are waiting to bloom.
She has spent the afternoon soaking up details about our trip. She listens to us in English, and asks her father to translate into Farsi what she missed.

After dinner, Fatima brings out her window to the world. She has the same look we do. It’s the look of possibility. She longs to know this sweet planet we live on more intimately.

“Oh…be careful. If you look at maps too much, you may end up doing crazy trips like we do,” I joke, as I trace lines over borders, trying to erase them.

It doesn’t matter that the countries and cities are spelled in the swirling letters I can’t read. Our route is part of me, for good or for bad.
Fatima and I sit together on the colorful carpet, and zigzag our way through continents. She wants to know about Thailand, and India, and Tajikistan, and everywhere.

“She would like you to sign her book,” her father tells us, reading the anticipation in Fatima’s eyes.

We are touched. We blush. What words could we share with this lovely girl and her younger sister who inspire us as much as we inspire them?

We start, as always, with gratitude. We thank this kind family for inviting us into their lives.

I pause, thinking of the next words to write. Fatima lives in a place rich with human history, and a place cautiously holding onto a system I hope won’t hold her back.

“Find your way forward in this beautiful world. The Earth belongs to you!” I have much more to say, but they are the only nuggets of wisdom I can dream up after a long day walking.

I put down the pen, and hug Fatima as tight as I can. I want some of my wanderlust, walker’s courage and backpacker spirit to seep into her blood.

I give Fatima an extra squeeze. I want her wide-eyed innocence, enthusiasm and optimism to power the next leg of our walk.

We are generations apart, but we share map love. We walk in each other’s footsteps.


Sarakhs – Mashhad


Descripció del primer tram de Iran. Han estat aproximadament 200 quilòmetres des de Sarakhs que toca la frontera amb Turkmenistan i Mashhad, la segona ciutat en tamany de Iran i el primer nucli urbà que ens trobem.

Aquest tram ha estat dur per la forta calor al centre del dia així com pel pes que portem amb extra d’ aigua i menjar, degut a que hem creuat molts llargs trams de desert sense res de res. Ara bé, la generositat, hospitalitat i bondat que moltes persones ens han regalat pel camí fa que caminar entre aquestes meravelloses persones sigui un plaer i fins i tot un privilegi.

Benvinguts a Iran! Quines persones!!!!

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